Dad Tristian, who constructed a wall in the garden and mentored his son to the summit, supports his 19-year-old climbing apprentice.
Twelve-year-old Toby Roberts from Surrey was “instantly hooked” by the Olympic fantasy when climbing’s Tokyo 2020 debut was confirmed in 2016, but he would be too young to compete in Japan. Rather, he devised an eight-year plan aimed at the 2024 Olympics, with non-climbing father Tristian providing support as a rope-holder, coach, taxi, “and bank,” and even constructing a climbing wall in the family’s backyard. Their common goal will be realized this summer, high atop Paris’ Olympic walls.
At the age of 19, Roberts’ passion for his sport is greater than ever. In this interview, he declares, “I love climbing/training/competing/trying hard” more than 20 times. Tristian and Marina, his parents, are incredibly proud of him. “Seeing how hard he works is inspiring; it’s been a privilege,” Tristian remarks.
Roberts’ initial actions at an after-school club ten years ago, when he wouldn’t give up on a climb, are what gave rise to his unyielding tenacity. “It came so naturally to me to throw myself fully into each pull on the wall. Toby says, “I just love trying hard.”
Even though Roberts had won youth international gold and set records for rock climbs while carrying Tristian, his sudden ascent to the senior team was surprising. He strengthened himself on his dad’s makeshift climbing wall during the pandemic. He says, “I really leveled up.” Following the lockdown, Tristian rented a place in Austria, which allowed Roberts to practice in top-notch facilities.
The costs were justified. He earned the moniker “Toby the Terminator” for his daring after finishing third at a Lead (rope climbing) World Cup in Edinburgh during his first senior year in 2022. “I was so excited to train for the next season after winning my first World Cup medal in a home event,” he says.
Robert’s breakthrough year was 2023. He was the World Cup gold medallist in Boulder (short, unroped climbs) in Italy, having won on his final try in the closing moments of the competition. He remarks, “It was a fairytale ending.” “All those years of preparation paid off at once. Even now, it makes my heart race.
Subsequently, Roberts had his first pint of beer—a less stimulating event. “It was rather disheartening,” he remarks. “I didn’t come away wanting more.” Tristian notes that his son frequently comes up with “savage one-liners” due to his deadpan humor.
A few weeks later, Roberts won the Lead World Cup in France. As he excitedly ushered in the crowd ahead of schedule, Tristian worried, saying, “I’m like, just get to the top first!” He became the first British athlete to win gold in two different events, joining a select group that included bronze medallist Jakob Schubert of Austria and legendary Czech athlete Adam Ondra.
Roberts finds it “surreal” to compete against idols who have climbed for longer than he has lived. Tristian posts a picture of a preteen Roberts posing with Ondra, looking awestruck. It hasn’t really hit home for Roberts that he is competing with people he has always looked up to.
However, Roberts was uneasy at the world championships in August of last year when he had the first chance to qualify for Paris in the “Boulder and Lead” combined event due to growing expectations. He was “pretty gutted,” finished in fifth place, and missed the podium cut, but his disappointment was only a reflection of how high he had raised the bar.
Roberts was able to refocus because to the father-son bond. Tristian remarks, “I know exactly what’s got him here.” “The discussions we’ve had over the past ten years, discussing, digesting, and adopting a competitive mindset. It’s significant,” he remarks.
Roberts was prepared for the October World Cup competition, in which only the victor would advance to the Olympics. I have to remind myself to love climbing and why I do it. That truly assisted me in letting go of any burdens or strain, which prevents you from climbing successfully,” he claims.
He went to the top even though he had already won before completing the last route. “It was the best competition of my entire life,” he reminisces, “hearing the crowd’s massive cheer, knowing that I’d qualified for the Olympics with only five moves to go, then sticking that last move.
After that, a distraught Tristian gave his son a hug. He remarks, “I don’t know how he just came out and had the least amount of pressure on him.”
The Olympic exhilaration has begun. Roberts was featured on Great British Menu on the BBC; the figs were described as “enlightening.” Olympian Shauna Coxsey from Tokyo 2020 has offered guidance. He managed the “fine balance” of training two disciplines while climbing on a replica Olympic bouldering wall in London and posting videos of his travels on YouTube.
Roberts finished fourth in Boulder and won a Lead World Cup earlier this month in China. “After a demanding winter of training, Paris preparations are going well,” he comments.
Tristian, the coach, will watch “more as a parent” in Paris, his heart pounding. Toby will never forget who saw his ups and downs and held his ropes. “My family has supported me and enabled me to reach my full potential,” he claims. “I am so appreciative of their help.”
Roberts will approach Paris as “just another ordinary competition”, taking it one move at a time and utilizing his love for climbing, letting go of expectations and putting his metaphorical “baggage” on the ground. This will be done as speculation about his medal chances intensifies.
It’s about striking a balance between enjoying the Olympics and just being here to climb, he explains. “I’ll do my best to achieve the main goal of winning the gold, but my main goal is to have fun.” Just getting to experience the Olympics excites me much.